Anandpur Sahib in Punjab is the birthplace of the Khalsa. Hence it is one of the holiest sites for the Sikhs. It is here that the tenth. Guru of the Sikhs Guru Gobind Singh initiated the Panch Piaras (five elected) into the Khalsa (Pure) brotherhood making the 5 k's Kesh (unshorn hair), kanga (small boxwood comb in their hair), kaccha (a pair of shorts), kara (a steel bangle), and a kirpan (a short dagger), mandatory for the Sikhs. When the tercentenary was celebrated in 1999 the entire town was painted white and illuminated.
Close to Keshgarh Sahib Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) stands Anandgarh. Climb up the stairs and enter the fort to visit the Anandgarh Sahib Gurdwara. A sound and light show is held here every night narrating the history of the place and giving a glimpse into sikh history.
Close by in Himachal Pradesh are the Naina Devi hills where lies the temple of Naina Devi, a much revered goddess. An excursion to this shrine is quite cathartic even if you are not a believer. You drive up the hills and walk up the last 500 odd steps. It is here that the Goddess of the beautiful eyes resides and grants many a boon to her worshippers.
Gurdwara Keshgarh Sahib is the most important Gurudwara in Anandpur Sahib as it is the place where the Khalsa was founded. Every March the festival of Hola Mohalla is celebrated here and the sleepy town of Anandpur Sahib comes alive. In fact the festival was started by Guru Gobind Singh who felt that Holi as it was then being celebrated had lost its essence of fraternity and brotherhood. So in 1757 he decided to revive the spirit of Holi with the festival of Hola Mohalla, celebrated a day after Holi (15 March this year) for three days. Early morning prayers at the Gurdwara herald the event. At noon everyone eats together at the Guru ka Langar (community Kitchen). Colourful processions are organized and the Nihang Sikhs are the star attraction. Dressed in their traditional martial costumes they give a display of their skills in archery, sword fencing horse riding and shooting. Battles are enacted with enthusiasm and the area resounds to the sounds of the firing of ancient cannons.
Started by Guru Gobind Singh, this sikh festival has been declared a national festivals and thousands gather at Anandpur Sahib to see mock battles and participate in music and poetry competitions.
The Nihangs (traditional members of the Sikh army founded by Guru Gobind Singh) carry on the martial tradition by performing daring feats such as Gatka (mock encounters) tent pegging, bareback horse riding and standing erect on 2 speeding horses much to the delight of the audience. They present a fierce picture as they gallop past on horseback spraying colour on the people. Soon everyone is spraying colour on each other. The highlighted of the last day is a long procession led by the Panj Piaras which makes a round of all the Gurudwaras in the area.
A fair comes up around the Gurudwara, it is fun to walk amid the little kiosks and roadside shops to buy trinkets and souvenirs during the Hola Mohalla. Evening is the time for cultural activities.
Anandpur Sahib is a short distance of Chandigarh so make your way there on 15 March for Hola Mohalla and join in the festivities.