Badami, Karnataka situated at the mouth of a ravine, was once the capital of the mighty Chalukyan Empire that held sway over most of the Deccan peninsular from the 4th to the 8th century. The surrounding hills are dotted with temples, forts, gateways, carvings and inscriptions but Badami is best known for its famous four rock-cut cave temples built into the sandstone ridge. Badami means almond colored and these caves have a reddish yellow hue. A bit of a climb leads to the first cave, which is the oldest (6th century) and dedicated to Lord Shiva. The image of Shiva in the Nataraja (Dancer) form can be seen, striking 81 dance poses and the expression on his face is of sheer bliss. On another wall is a huge carving of Shiva in the Ardhanareshwar form (Shiv/Shakti man/women) the sculptor has combined beautifully the features of Shiva and Parvati, (his consort), in one form. Another figure is that of a combined Shiva and Vishnu (the preserver).
As you walk further you get to Cave Number Two dedicated to Vishnu. Mythical lion creatures hang from the top brackets. One wall is the Varha (boar) incarnation of Vishnu, which was also the emblem of the Chalukyas. Cave Number three is dedicated to Vishnu. There is a large carving of Vishnu sitting on a coiled Sheshnag (snake). The other 2 gods of the Hindu Trinity are carved on another wall Shiva, (Destroyer) on a bull and Brahma (Creator) on a swan.
Cave number four was carved last (7th to 8th century) and is dedicated to Jainism. As you look down from the caves, you see the beautiful Agasthya Muni tank/lake of the 5th century, with the Bhutanatha Temples along its edge. One side of the tank has an archeological museum worth visiting, if only to see the unusual Lajja Gauri image which goes back to a fertility cult that flourished here a long time ago. The water of this tank has healing powers; a king was once cured of leprosy. Dravidian art was at its best in these caves and the temples around and many think its inspired later day sculptors of Hindu temples in the South.
A short distance from Badami (20km/12 miles) lies the second capital of the Chalukyas, Pattadakal. The temple complex here is a UNESCO World Heritage site with temples ranging from the 3rd to the 9th centuries Pattadakal comes alive end of January every year when a classical dance festival is held here.
Not to be missed is a visit to Aihole, the regional capital (4th to 6th century). Aihole has numerous temples, some of which have been covered by foliage and some taken over by humans and run as wayside stops. In the center is the Durga Temple, the most impressive of the temples in Aihole. Aihole is a virtual museum of temples where you can study temple architecture forever. The sculptors must surely have been gods not men.
Badami is well connected by road and rail. The nearest airport is Belgaum (180 km/110 miles).