Deep in the heart of the India desert, the Thar lies the living fort of Jaisalmer. This amber hued fort in yellow sandstone rises like a golden phoenix in an otherwise flat colourless landscape. Legend has it that Lord Krishna once told Arjuna (of the Mahabharat) that a descendant of the Yadav clan would build a kingdom on Trikuta Hill. In 1156 AD Rawal Jaisal, a Bhatti Rajput ruler, abandoned his fort at Lodurva and moved to the new capital-Jaisalmer. He and his clan forced a levy on the caravans which crises crossed the desert, laden with silks and spices, on the famous trade route linking India to Arabia, Persia, Egypt, Africa and the West. Jaisalmer is the only living fort in the country. Its magnificent palaces, havelis, temples, residents with their colourful dresses and of course the camels with their supercilious expressions conjure up images of the Arabian Nights. The setting sun turns Jaisalmer to shades of gold and amber and you can stand watching it forever.
It stands tall on its 80-meter high perch, with the entire township within its ramparts. Its narrow lanes speak of mystery and the lovely havelis are out of Brigadoon.
The best way to take in the sights is to walk around the fort. There are 3 very famous havelis belonging to the rich merchants of medieval times. Nathmalji-ki-haveli built in the late 19th century belonged to the then prime minister of Jaisalmer and was gifted by him to the Rawal. The Patwon-ki-Haveli is the grandest of the mansions with exquisitely carved pillars. One of the apartments of this 5-story haveli has beautiful murals. Salim-Singh-ki-Haveli is 300 years old. With its blue cupola roof and carved peacock brackets, it is truly magnificent. All these havelis have the finest latticework in yellow sandstone on their facades. The work is delicate as lace and you fear to touch it, lest it crumble.
Three exquisitely carved Jain temples of the 12th to 15th century are other places to visit. Walk through the Sonyaron-ka-bas or silversmiths/goldsmiths Street to see unique jewels of craftsmanship. No one can come away without buying some. Jaisalmer is also famous for embroidery, Rajasthani mirror work, rugs, blankets, antiques and old stone work tie-dye (Bandhini) and other fabrics Do pick up some souvenirs and carry the enchantment and magic of Jaisalmer with you. During the famous Desert festival of Jaisalmer (Jan/Feb) cultural programs are held at the famous Sam dunes. The more adventurous can take a camel safari to the dunes to get a real feel of the desert. Against the background of the yellow sands the great Thar desert reverberates to the music and rhythm of the rich and coulourful Rajasthani folk culture with its balladeers singing of valour, love and tragedy, snake charmers, puppeteers, acrobats, folk performers and camel dances.
Jaisalmer is the most fascinating destination in Rajasthan and if you haven't seen it then do make plans. After all it is like a golden mirage in the desert and if you close your eyes it may disappear and then you will regret it all you're life. Jaisalmer is an easy drive from Jodhpur. Air services to Jaisalmer are available during the high season, (from October to March).