Maheshwar in Khargone district on the banks of the sacred Narmada river in Madhya Pradesh, has held it's own since the dawn of civilization. It was a centre of culture and religion finding mention in the epics, the Ramayan and the Mahabharat as Mahishmati the capital of king Kartivarjun.
It is a temple town with most of the temples dating to the 18th century. Rani Ahilya Bai of Indore was a great ruler of the Holkar dynasty and was loved and revered by her people. Being a just queen, even during her lifetime she was worshiped as a deity.
The 18th century fort dominates the skyline of Maheshwar. Inside is a museum which displays heirlooms and other memorabilia of the Holkar dynasty. A very special exhibit is a small shrine. This is installed reverentially, on a palanquin every year and is carried down from the fort to mark the beginning of the annual Dushera festival (October). People of Maheshwar line up to pay their homage. Among the prized possessions of the house of Holkar is a beautiful life size statue of Rani Ahilya Bai, seated on a throne, the Rajgaddi.
The Fort, on the banks of the Narmada has opened up many possibilities with the palace being converted into a hotel, though retaining its Marthawada style. It may even be available for select weddings with vegetarian meals permitted, in keeping with the sanctity of Ahilya Bai's memory. Strolling along the ghats of Maheshwar is an interesting experience. You come upon countless temples dedicated to several Hindu deities. Most of them are multi-storeyed with soaring spires and exquisitely carved overhanging balconies and intricately worked doorways. Prominent among the temples are Kaleshwar, Rajaraheshwara, Vithaleshwara and Ahileshwara. On Mahashivratri the Shiva temples host 3 day musical celebrations. This is when pilgrims flock to Maheshwar.
Walk along the famous ghats; Peshwa, Fanese and Ahilya and watch the people at their daily rituals. Here life revolves around the river as it does in most pilgrim centers. A swim in the Narmada is quite exhilarating, try it. Opposite Maheshwar on the southern bank of the Narmada is the historic archeological site of Navdatoli. In 1950 the site yielded painted pottery and microliths. Archeologists have agreed that cultures ranging from the Lower Paleolithic period to the 18th century existed at Navdatoli. Excavated house plans show circular or rectangular buildings of around 1500 B.C.
Maheshwar is well known for it's distinctive handwoven Maheshwari sarees, a blend of cotton and silk and fine as gossamer. The present descendent of Ahilya Bai, Yashwantra Richard Holkar has helped revive this craft by making it into a cooperative Rehwa.
This has helped empower the women of the town. You can see them at their looms inside the Fort. Besides sarees, they also weave, shawls, scarves and stoles as well as table linen. So there is plenty to buy Ahilya fragrances have now been patented by the Royal House of Holkar so buy some to bring back.
As you wander down the ghats, for one last time, Maheshwar's temples and mighty fort-complex, stand in quiet beauty mirrored in the river below. The words of the poet come to mind and gently flows the river.